Sunday 14 September 2008

San Jose (again)

God bless free internet!
Today we left Cahuita and travelled for 4 hours to San Jose, which we meant to do, and are now staying the night, which we didn't, but through a phantasmagorically unsurprising series of events, our luck ran out in terms of making connections efficiently. Until now we've always been lucky enough that we just happen to have gotten to San Jose in time to get a connecting bus to where we wanted to go, which got in before nighttime. We didn't leave things to chance because we're masochists or lazy, but because there's no other choice.. the guide book doesn't give times and even when it does, they're subject to change on a whim anyway. We want to get to Uvita (in the Zona Sur, near Dominical, for those who're following) in daylight, and this wasn't going to be possible today since the only bus to take us there would get in at 7pm earliest, which would've meant staying a night in San Isidro or Dominical. We decided that we'd rather stay a night here, knowing that we could get free internet at any hostel, and then just get up super-early, than go to a new place and get even tireder. So here we are, in the innapropriately-named 'Tranquillo' Backpackers. The plan for today is vague, but our number one priority is (as always) locate the free coffee. Then I quite fancy a new top, since I've worn this one to death and since it only cost 2 pounds originally from Primark, I feel it has more than earnt a rest.
Uvita sounds beautiful, anyway, and apparently it's very good for surfing which Ben really wants to do - one can bodyboard there too (some people call it 'boogie-boarding', but Ben turns his nose up) which I might be half-good at. Depending on how nice it is (and whether or not we can get cheap accomodation with a kitchen, since cooking for ourselves is mega fun and mega cheap), we'll either stay there for 7 days, OR, and this is only in the pipeline at the moment, we have plan B. This is to go to La Fortuna (Zona Norte), four hours away from San Jose, stay for a night and hope that we're lucky enough to see the spectacular displays of lava flowing from the nearby Volcano Arenal, then get transportation by 'Jeep-Boat-Jeep' (which does what it says on the tin, and apparently is an aesthetically and fiscally pleasing way of travelling, rather than taking the infamously shoddy road) to Monteverde, home of the number 1 tourist attraction in the country, the cloudforest reserve. Here we'll spend one day trekking through the forest, and maybe a morning's Canopy Zip-lining, which is difficult to explain but takes you through the treetops in a harness at a speed of your choice (and which doesn't qualify as an extreme sport so don't worry). As I said, though, this all very much depends on how Uvita is and how our bank balances are - I'm very very tempted though, since we're only here once and it is a schlep and a bit of money, in return for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Anyway, Cahuita - it was very lovely there, the weather alone made a very refreshing change from the ubiquitous showers we've had nearly everywhere. The change of culture (most of Cahuita's inhabitants are descended from Africans brought over a couple of hundred years ago to work in the banana plantations and build the train in Limon Province. They've been treated by the Costa Rican government about as well as Africans have in every other part of the world..) was very welcome, and overall we had a lovely stay. There was a lot of atmosphere and nightlife, too, whereas Samara was pretty much dead. Last night we went to Coco's Bar, which seems to be THE place to be of an evening in Cahuita, and where they serve 80p beer and 1.50 doubles of Cafe Rica (coffee liquer along the lines of Kahlua but much nicer). Friday night is reggae night, though it seems that every night is reggae night.
Yesterday we also walked along the trail which parallells the beach, to Punta Cahuita (Cahuita point, although since 'Cahuita' actually means 'point' in Misquito, we went to Point Point) and stuck to the trail as advised since snakes abound. We've been swimming in the sea a few times, too, it's usually very calm and clear which is doubly good, since it means it's less likely to be full of effluence (always reassuring when you get eaten by the waves and nearly swallow mouthfulls of it as I did) and also that you will probably spot a jellyfish before you step on it. We also discovered a Chinese restaurant where they REALLY emphasise quantity over quality.. we were defeated by their oversized portions of chow mein for only 2 pounds and rated it an average of 8 out of 10 for likely-to-returnability, which quickly plummeted to 1 after we went to the counter to pay for our meal, and spotted one of the members of staff counting/faffing about with lettuces. On the floor. Our accomodation, too, was lovely - we stayed in Cabinas near the sea owned by an African-American man called Geoffrey, and his wife. We don't actually know if that was his name but it should be, and that's how we referred to him, if not to his face. Geoffrey didn't seem to actually do much of everything - he was always pootling around the village on his bike, which makes sense since we never did find that branch of PriceWaterHouseCoopers that he claimed to work at. Last night (before the trip to the bar, I might add), I very accidentally and with almost slapstick precision managed to knock Ben's toothbrush down the toilet. He took it surprisingly well, merely wondering aloud- 'if you knock a toothbrush down the toilet, does it become a toilet brush?'. Also, I've learnt that ordering 'tea negra con leche' doesn't mean you get a cup of black tea, with some milk in or on the side, it means that you actually get a cup of tea made with milk RATHER THAN water. I've taken a picture of it for posterity and to remind myself not to bother next time.
I suspect that I've abused the free internet for long enough now. I'm off to get coffee and read one of my new books (managed to pick up A Picture of Dorian Gray and Dubliners for less than their 2 pounds price tags!). Can someone update me with what happened in the last few Formula Ones, please? From what I can gather - Massa only got a fine for his mistake 3 races ago (about 7,000 pounds which is precisely nothing, or a wing mirror, to Ferrari), whereas Hamilton got penalised some places for his overtaking Raikkonen on a chicane at Spa? And then he finished 1st but not really? And did Vettel really win at Monza?? I've been saying for weeks that he looks really promising, and he seems much nicer than Lewis Hamilton, so good luck to the boy. Even if it is a bit terrifying that he's the same age as me, and he's just won a Grand Prix, and I'm... pottering around in Central America. Any other news from our island? Thanks as ever for the comments and emails, they really do make a difference.
See you soon, in only 11 days!
Love,

Louise and Ben xxxxxxxxxxxx

2 comments:

Unknown said...

heyhey LOUISE,

ive had a look thru ur journal and it sounds like ur having a wikid, eventful adventure. look forward to reading ur next chapter. can u mention in ur next update when ur coming home, as im ignorant to this?

miss u, love u, etc

much love,

Ricky

Simon said...

'if you knock a toothbrush down the toilet, does it become a toilet brush?'

LOLAGE

Still loving these entries. Great fun. Sounds like you're having the full-on rambling gapyear adventure, albeit not actually on a gap year. I remain, stoically, jealous.

F1 is indeed in some pandemonium at the moment. Hamilton cut a corner to avoid ramming Raikonnen off the track. This caused him to unfairly gain a place, so he slowed right down and gave the place back, and then literally a few yards later outbraked Raikonnen into a corner and overtook again, but the marshalls decided he was 'only able to do that because he was carrying extra speed out of the last corner' - but he had to have wiped that speed off when he gave Raikonnen back the place - you cant get overtaken by someone going slower than you!!! It was raining and Raikonnen was braking too early, so Hamilton braked later and overtook - textbook overtaking, but the marshalls thought otherwise. Conspiracy theories are rife, but not just on teh internetz - big wigs in the industry are sounding off about how for yet another year, the FIA have managed to engineer a title fight in the concluding races of the season. You'll have to make that decision for yourself.

The only other news is the continuing disintegration of our countries economy - every day the headlines bring another major institution in turmoil. Today its a takeover by Lloyds TSB of HBOS (Halifax), which will lead to market consolidation and less competition, and thousands of job losses, and the death of a thousand kittens, and global nuclear warfare, et al.

If you have a min sign in to LJ to read about my interview with Top Gear.

Can't wait to have you home, traversing the urban jungle once more.

Love etc

S